The dalai lama and the rock star

Mundgod
I left my windowless cell around 09:30 after a poor nights sleep, surprisingly I slept between seven and nine, after very little during the night. The room was tiny, noisy and the fan barely turning with the temperature hovering around roast, despite it being cool outside in the midden, where pigs and dogs scavenged occasionally fighting with each other over unthinkable scraps, Im happy to be on a 90% vegetarian diet.

Although the town was pretty dirty the people were nice enough and I had a short cycle to the Tibetan refugee camp where the DL was and a longer cycle through it, its huge. There are banks a carpet factory and all sorts of amenities. Its a bit odd seeing such a concentration of Chinese/ Tibetan people in India but the scene was cool, friendly, relaxed and I had a couple of interesting conversations that evolved beyond “what is your country” ?

I nearly didnt get in at all as my bag had two cameras a phone and two knives in it and getting beyond the first check by trusting the young guy to look after them for me, I nearly decked the second security guard. While showing him that there was nothing capable of recording an image or harming anyone in my bag, he decided it was time for a body search. Now Im wearing lycra and a long top over it so as not to adversely affect anyone's stomach and this guys hands are on my arse/ thighs. He didnt speak much English but he got the essence of what I said.

The atmosphere inside was good natured and relaxed, the teachings were interesting enough, transmitted on FM in English, but the signal was poor and it was fairly standard Bhuddist stuff about the various routes and paths to enlightenment.

I didnt get into the place where his Holiness was and I could have in the afternoon, but felt the morning was enough for me and headed on after first meeting up with Pam and Pat who had told me about the DL being here in the first place. Savanur
I made it too Savanur, a very interesting place and a good destination for those who like markets and friendly people, who are not used to seeing westerners. The whole town is a buzz, people selling pulses, vegetables and every imaginable plastic object. Doing anything there took me a great deal of time as I was expected to chat with every second person on the street, although draining I found myself developing a great affection for the town and its people.

There is only one lodging option and although not the worst isnt the best either but at Rs85 I wasnt complaining.

I had a great meal and while I was eating, and in the free moments while not repeating my “good name”, country, destination etc. I watched the barber across the street give someone a shave and decided that was my next destination. Ashok, my barber was a delightful man and his hands seemed much cleaner than the chap in Trimbakeshwar.

He made an excellent job and would not stop until he had tidied my existing haircut and shaved the back of my neck, sorted my sideburns and generally made a fuss. The young lad in the photograph was his apprentice and the owner spoke excellent English and rhymed off the towns on my route to ensure I took the shortest route. Truly an excellent town and well worth a visit.